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Gluten Free Recipes, a Work in Progress…

This past year, gluten free cooking has become our mantra, as more and more guests come into the restaurant who are gluten intolerant. Not satisfied with merely serving them gluten-free bread and discussing the limitations of our menu for them, we decided that it was time to really restructure our menu in a much smarter way with regards to this now epidemic problem.   Our friend and nutritionist, Elizabeth Dimeo, kindly joined our guests last Thursday for an informative and inspiring evening, discussing gluten-free diets and their benefits.  My personal favorite thing that she said was how she described a typical, diet-conscious, working American’s day: “You wake up in the morning, and eat your Special K, since everyone says it’s good diet food, with of course , skim milk.  By 10am you could eat a horse.  Light-headed and hungry, you get through the rest of the morning, and now: lunch!  A couple of slices of turkey between two slices of Pepperidge Farm skinny bread!  With a schmear of mayo and a Diet Coke! Great.  It’s 1 pm and have you had anything DELICIOUS or NUTRITIOUS yet to eat?  Not at all.  Now you get through the afternoon, by 4pm you’re ready for a nap.  Snack, let’s not mention it, cookies, crackers, and now dinner…PASTA!  with a glass of red wine.  Do you know the best thing about this meal?  The glass of wine!”

I have to admit, I don’t think she was exaggerating too badly here.  I know that gluten-ful foods have been the mainstay of my diet since I became a pastry chef.  But what Franck and I both have found since we’ve dramatically reduced our intake of these (much-beloved) foods, is that in fact when you take them out, not only do you get the benefit of a more varied and healthy diet, more satisfied and less tired, but also you end up replacing them with extra portions of more nutrient-rich foods: veggies, beans, etc.  It’s just inevitable.

One of the reasons that we love Elizabeth so much is that she’s a foodie; she’s not advocatinga strict menu of bland, boring healthy foods.  Our menu for Thursday night’s event was our attempt to get the guests excited about how delicious gluten-free recipes can be.  So, since many folks who might be interested in some of our new developments for our own cooking weren’t able to attend last week’s dinner, I thought I’d post the recipes that we’ve shared with our “Manger! Boire! Eat! Drink!” people here:

 

Cauliflower “Couscous”

1 head cauliflower, shave with a sharp knife.  Pulse in a food processor to the texture of couscous.  Saute ¼ onion in olive oil and add ½ t curry powder, ½ t harissa, 2 T white wine, splash water, 2 T butter, and cook lightly.

Sprouting Lentils

Soak lentils one hour in a large jar.  Drain and cover with Cheesecloth.  Allow to sit in a cool, dry place for 2-3 days, rinsing with cold water 2 times/day, draining well each time.  After 2-3 days you will see the root sprouting out of the lentils.  Keep in the refrigerator until ready to use. Dress these lentils with vinaigrette to push up the protein and nutrient value of your salads considerably.  We served them warm with the Cauliflower “Couscous.”

Chickpea Panisse

2 c stock

1 ¼ c chickpea flour

3 T olive oil

Salt, pepper

¼ c minced onion

1 t smoked paprika

1 T oregano

1 t espelette pepper

-Saute onion and spices in small sauté pan until tender

-whisk in flour, stock. Olive oil, cold

-heat up slowly while whisking.

-when thick like roux, and pulling away from the pan, remove from heat.

-fold in onion mixture, season.

-cool spread flat on mini sheet pan, cover with plastic, chill to cut into desired shapes and then pan- or deep- fry.

 

Grilled Chicken Marinade

5 lemons juiced and zested

6 garlic cloves, minced

½ bunch basil or cilantro, chopped

2 c honey

Salt and pepper

 

Gluten-free Blondies

1 x 7X11 sheet pan, greased and floured.  Oven 350F

230 g gluten free flour**

½ t salt

1 ½ t  baking powder

2 sticks melted butter

1 ¼ c  brown sugar

½ c sugar

2 yolk

2 egg

1 ½ t vanilla

Chocolate chunks to cover

** gluten free flour mix:

2 c brown rice flour

1 c sweet sorghum flour

1 c coconut flour

-Melt butter and mix with sugars, add eggs, yolks and vanilla.  Stir in dry ingredients, pour into pan and top with chocolate chunks.  Bake until tester just comes out clean, about 25 minutes.

 

Watercress & Cauliflower Soup

1 head cauliflower, chopped

4 bunches watercress, washed

1 onion, diced

1 celery stick, diced

1 leek, sliced

1 c white wine

Salt, pepper, nutmeg

Vegetable stock or water

-sweat the onion, leek, and celery, add white wine, stock & cauliflower.  When cauliflower is tender, season soup and add the watercress.  Bring to boil, then turn off heat and puree.

 

Socca – Chickpea Crêpe

1 ¾ c chickpea flour

2 c water

1.5 T extra virgin olive oil

¾ t salt

Pepper

 

2 egg whites – whip to soft peak and fold into above

Can finish batter with fresh herbs, if desired.  Pour into heated, oiled crepe pan.  We served these with ratatouille and braised Swiss chard.

 

Quinoa Jumbalaya

4 servings

 

12 shrimp

20 bay scallops

2 T olive oil

1 medium onion, chopped

1 green pepper chopped

2 stalks celery, chopped

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 large tomato, diced

2-3 T tomato paste

¾ c quinoa, rinsed

1 c white wine

1 c vegetable stock or water

1 t paprika

¼ t cayenne

1 t dried oregano

1 t dried thyme

3 bay leaves

Salt, pepper

Sweat onion, pepper, celery & garlic until translucent.  Add seasonings and tomato paste.  Add tomatoes, salt, pepper and quinoa, stock & wine.  Bring to boil & cover 15 mins.  over low heat.  Stir occasionally and check if quinoa is fully cooked.  Add shellfish at the end and check seasoning.

 

What is Petit Epeautre/Einkorn Grain?? Why Should We Eat It?

The event that I attended in Boston yesterday at the Chef’s Collaborative was called “It All Comes Down to Grain.”  I’ve been thinking about grains so much lately, and trying to bake with Petit Epeautre/Einkorn grain, to make healthier, but equally delicious, pastries.  The challenges, the goals, the context — all have been fluttering around and I needed to verbalize this for the chefs and farmers at the event in just a few minutes.  Ugh!

The first part of the event was a presentation by Eli Rogosa, the woman whom we met in March, an anthropologist working on saving heritage grains from extinction.  One of her favorites, of the many seeds she has tested aquired from gene banks around the world, is Einkorn or Petit Epeautre in French.  Her original grain was collected in Europe, and multiple field trials sponsored by the USDA at UMass resulted in great production from the Einkorn plants in the Berkshire climate.  It has twice the protein and minerals as modern commercial wheat, and is considered “gluten safe” for many people who have been dealing with wheat and gluten sensitivities brought on largely by the hybridization and manipulation of modern mono-crop wheats.  Today’s blended “all-purpose” wheats have been bread to grow very low to the ground, in order to be less fragile, have a very short root system, and are grown as mono-crops, making them highly dependent on synthetic fertilizers to help them grow.  They have been bred for high gluten content, to make the lighter, puffier loaves of bread that we’ve all grown accustomed to.  In fact, it seems that they’ve been so manipulated that they are much less digestible and have been making more and more people sick!  The ancient wheats and grains have the advantage of a very deep root system, making them much more hardy, though they grow very tall (as we all imagine wheat does and should, but it doesn’t anymore!).  As Eli points out, in a  capricious climate change environment such as we are now living in, better to depend on grains that have survived 1000′s of years and have the ability to survive without synthetic fertilizers or possibly with very little water! Nevermind that they are easily digestible and organically grown.

But do these grains taste delicious?  Are they easy to work with?  As I said to the guests at yesterdays event, “Yes, you can make French pastries with ancient grains!”  Who knew?  It’s very satisfying to work with this beautiful flour:  It has a delicacy of flavor and a silkiness to it which is very appealing, and butter just seems to bring out these qualities even more.  I’m learning to bake all over again, and it was a great experience to attend the event in Boston yesterday, meet some like-minded chefs, and get to validate and contextualize a bit more our decision to limit our working with commercial wheat and maximize our use of the ancient grain Petit Epeautre!  It’s not “all-purpose” but why should it be?  It’s very liberating to be able to think and act holistically about what we’re doing as chefs.  It feels like a missing link has been supplied in our sourcing of healthier, pesticide-free, not genetically modified REAL FOOD to serve at our restaurant.  We have no interest in working with a product which is largely indigestible.  And when you can have excellent results, there’s really no question.  As Eli says “Eat it to Save it.”  We cannot lose these ancient grains!

Speculoos Fruit Crumble

Crumble…gotta have it…it’s just one of those things!  People love crumble so much, if it’s not on the menu, that’s it, they’re not getting any dessert.  I have to say,  I love it too.  It’s not the most original dessert out there, but when it’s well done (fruit’s not too sweetened, crumble is cooked through — not raw! –) it really always satisfies.  I’m convinced that people order it in restaurants because somewhere they feel that it’s healthy, but I’ve had guests assure me that no, they just love it!  And it’s the perfect seasonal dessert, too, of course. Whatever fruit looks good, just top it and bake!

So how to make myself more engaged by baking crumble after crumble?  I’ve must have literally made thousands of them.  Dorie Greenspan, one of my strongest muses, provided an excellent option this past fall:  add crushed Speculoos!

What are Speculoos, you ask, and why would I want them in my already-divine crumble? Speculoos are a kind of European ginger snap, my friends, and they are as addictive as any cookie you could want to eat.  Crumbled up, mixed with soft butter, and then mixed into your crumble topping, they take the dessert to a whole new level:  spicy, warm, yummy with winter fruits like apples and cranberries.

Crumbling stuff up into your crumble … why didn’t I think of this before???

Apple-Cranberry-Speculoos Crumble

 

Apple-Cranberry Speculoos Crumble

8 Granny Smith apples, peeled and chopped into 1/2 inch pieces

1/2 c fresh cranberries

1/2 c sugar

1 T cornstarch

pinch salt

1 t cinnamon

pinch freshly grated nutmeg

1 T lemon juice

-Toss all of the fruit together in a large bowl and set aside for the juices to release while you make the topping.

Topping:

1/2 lb butter, melted and cooled

3 1/2 c all-purpose flour

1 c oats

1 c sugar

1/2 c dark brown sugar

1 t cinnamon

1 t mixed spice for baking

pinch salt

-Toss all ingredients quickly together in a large bowl so that the butter is evenly distributed and mixture looks dry, not in big clumps:

If you don’t want to use the Speculoos, you can stop at this point, put the fruit in the baking dish and top with the crumble.  Bake at 375F until well-browned and bubbling (don’t take it out until you’ve got bubbles coming from the middle of the crumble, not just the edges; underbaked crumbles are one of my nemesis!) This is a delicious crumb topping, and by far the best recipe of all that I have tried over the years.
But, if you’d like to take things up a notch, by all means, let’s get the Speculoos in there!

You can buy Biscoff cookies, or these Trader Joe's look-alikes, or just use a nice gingersnap that you make or buy in the supermarket

For this quantity of crumb topping, use one package of cookies and one stick of soft butter.

Any heavy kitchen tool will crush these up efficiently. I like to keep a few large chunks so no one forgets that this is a Speculoos Crumble!

Use any heavy implement that you have to hand, a rolling pin, a hammer, express yourself… and crush the cookies in a large metal or wooden bowl with authority until they are crumbs with some nice chunks remaining.   Now you have to thoroughly smush the butter into the cookie crumbs, making sure that you evenly distribute the butter. Dorie Greenspan actually just put this topping onto the crumble and baked it. I tried this originally and it is really good and different, a nice change from the crumble doldrums. But it’s a bit sweet (even for me!) with all of those cookies, so I thought it might be nice to mix it into the topping and cut the sweetness a bit. Voila! The Ultimate Crumble…Soft butter mixes into the cookie crumbs with a lot of messy, sticky hand action!  Mix these into your other crumbs and load on top of the fruit in the baking pan Combine the two toppings and then sprinkle generously on top of the prepared fruit and bake. Any extra crumb topping can be frozen for the next time you are in the mood to bake dessert. They also make a nice topping for pumpkin muffins, if you’d like to try something different, but I guess that’s another story…

What do we know about Korean food??

We’re aware that this is a French restaurant!!  But we actually love to cook everything, and “Manger! Boire!” night is such a great way for us to share the other things that we know, besides French cuisine and pastry!

Living in London and studying pastry at Le Cordon Bleu in the mid 90′s, I somehow got mixed up with a band of Korean boarders living with a Korean family… long story…but what an amazing discovery for me: Korean food!  I happily devoured fabulous meals at their communal table, coming early and staying late to cook, cook, cook with the lady of the house.  Her English was sparse, but we smiled at each other, cooked, and smiled some more.  I took copious notes and ended up thanking them when it was time to go with a lasagna dinner (their requested dish:  never saw a group of people get so excited about lasagna and garlic bread…I was surprised until I realized that it was probably the amount of GARLIC in everything that they were loving!  garlic being an integral ingredient in Korean food).  We made breakfast, lunch and dinner together and I have to say, I never felt so healthy and energetic as during this time when I ate mostly Korean food!  Very light, savory, full of garlic, ginger, chilies and fermented pickles, this cuisine is definitely among our favorites.  It’s a huge cuisine with a vast history, and so different from other Asian cuisines.  We’re looking forward to showing what we know about Korean food to our guests this Thursday night!

 

Beet “Tartare”

It may sound like we’re saying Beef, but it’s actually vegetarian Beet “Tartare,” a delicious salad or spread — fresh beets that have been cooked & then seasoned like a traditional “Steak Tartare” — that we’ve been getting lots of recipe requests for.  The idea for the dish comes from one of our most reliable recipe-providers, Patricia Wells.  We’ve made it with local Heirloom beets of all colors, or just with regular red beets, and it’s always just wonderful. As part of our “Autumn Trio” with Mushroom-Walnut Pate & Home-made Fromage Blanc, it’s a pure winner!

1 lb beets, roasted or boiled until cooked through, then cooled and grated or shredded

2 shallots, chopped

½ c chopped parsley

2 T Dijon mustard

½ clove minced garlic

1 T chopped capers

Dash Tabasco

Dash Worcestershire

-Mix all together and taste for seasoning.  Use mayonnaise to taste, if desired, to bring together and give a little creaminess.  Let rest at least 1 hr before serving.

 

What’s a Posset?

Lemon-Lavender Posset

It has become a summer tradition here to serve this simple and refreshing dessert. I have so many requests for the recipe, I’ve decided to post it so that you can astonish your guests this summer with something that is so easy and delicious! It’s an old-fashioned, creamy English dessert made without any eggs or gelatin, which can be infused with any herb or citrus. Try using fresh thyme or rosemary instead of lavender and let me know how it comes out.

Lemon Lavender Posset
makes about 6, depending on your ramekins

2 1/4 c Heavy Cream
3/4 c sugar
1 T Lavender Flowers
-Bring to boil and let simmer for 2-3 minutes to slightly thicken the cream

1/2 c Lemon Juice
1 T lemon Zest
1/2 t vanilla extract
pinch salt
-Add the rest of the ingredients off of the heat, stir well, strain and pour into jars/ramekins. Let set in fridge at least 4 hours or overnight.

Escolar, What’s the Story?

If you want to know more about this delicious fish, that you really shouldn’t eat, you can read it at this link: Escolar – Wikipedia

We’ve carried this fish occasionally, and eaten it ourselves here and as “White Tuna” at other restaurants, and it’s so delicious and popular, you’d never imagine that it could make you sick, but it can.  Not lethally, and not everybody, but you can be uncomfortable for a period of time for sure.

It’s getting harder and harder to find fish that you can feel good about serving.  We stopped carrying shrimp a long time ago; now we get it only when it’s from a sustainable, good practice, American farm.  That’s it.  No Thai shrimp, no trawled shrimp, no way.  Mercury is a big issue, overfishing is a big issue, unhealthy fish farming practices is a big issue.  Oil spills?  other environmental degradation?  You really have to think before you buy.  We are able to get sustainably farmed salmon, but even that is shifting now and we’ve had to change companies because we lost trust in our former “Organic and Sustainable” fish company.  Line-caught Massachusetts Cod has been very good and reliable, as has Mediterranean Bronzini.

High-end restaurants like our favorite, Le Bernardin, charge a tremendous amount of money and serve fantastic fish, but that’s what you have to do these days more and more.  With all of the problems out there in the sea, it’s not obvious for people who can’t afford to spend that kind of money every time that they want to eat fish.  And it’s a shame when a fish that is so consistently fresh and delicious as escolar turns out to be, quite apart from all of these external factors, not, in fact, a good eating fish after all.  We really wanted everyone to know about the situation.

 

“Passion on the Vine” by Sergio Esposito

I can’t wait to thank one of my favorite wine-loving guests for this book that I’m finishing up right now, by Sergio Esposito, famed NY Italian wine merchant.  It’s a fantastic read and it contains, among other wonderful things, by far the best clarification I’ve ever read as to why you want to drink “organic” wine.

We once were hosting a party at the restaurant, serving two white wines. One was our house Chardonnay, which is an extremely pleasant Burgundy from a small producer, and the other was one of my favorite whites, an excellent deal called  ”Evolution,” from Sokol-Blosser in Oregon.  It’s a blend of nine white grapes which literally dances on the tongue:  it’s delicious, pure and balanced, and happens to be made by a woman who is, along with being a very high-end Oregon Pinot Noir producer,  a passionate advocate of organic and sustainable viticulture.  At this party, one gentleman approached the bar for a glass of white wine for his wife.  After I told him the two choices (” French Chardonnay or an Organic blend from Oregon?”) he replied, “the chardonnay; my wife won’t drink organic wine, it’s bad.”  What could I say?  First lesson in sales, the customer is always right, and it’s not my place to contradict.  But I was so sad.  The other wine is not bad, but the Evolution is really something special.  How to help people understand organic, biodynamic and sustainable wines better??

Now, I write “organic” because it’s so hard to categorize wine production by one label, and many organic wines aren’t even labeled as such (see above if you’re surprised, even the Evolution isn’t labeled organic though she drives her tractors on biodiesel!!).  But it’s true that just as in the food world, organic can be pretty hard to define.  There are other terms, like “sustainable” “minimal intervention” “biodynamic” “salmon-safe,” and it gets pretty complicated.  I guess I’m just happy when I’m choosing wines for my list if I know that the grape-grower/wine-maker is paying attention to tradition, respect for the land, respect for the consumer, and if their goal is for the wine in the glass to be a conscienciously-made, pure expression of the grapes, without flavor additives, pesiticides, or other chemicals getting in the mix.

Now here’s where our friend Sergio Esposito comes in to help us understand the goal of organic viticulture.  Of course I recommend reading the book, but I’ll just quote here some of what he says and see if anyone wants to argue with me.  It takes a kind of devotion and commitment to make wine this way; Esposito describes  ”This courage of conviction — the determination to make a drink that directly contradicts convention because you believe in its unerring and morally necessary authenticity…”  I would love people to come around to thinking that it’s certainly worth trying these wines…at least give them a taste!  There may be plenty of bad organic wine out there, but there’s plenty of other bad wines out there too, no???  Esposito quotes one winemaker, describing the process of producing  biodynamic wines:

“What is wine?…Wine is a family of bacteria, which together make life.  This life — in the form of thousands and billions of fermentations — takes a simple grape to a wine.  In every berry, we have everything a wine needs to develop….there are more than a thousand things you can legally add into your production process.  You can add drugged-up yeasts and banana flavor if you want…. If the thing that makes a wine unique is its terroir, then the wine must taste like the earth from which it came….if you work in real agriculture, things are unpredictable.  You can’t send your e-mail with the exact day of bottling…If you need to work in this chemical way, maybe you’ll one day…be really happy but your wine will be soulless, and why did you become a winemaker in the first place?”

Though my reduction simplifies things a bit far, it gives a good idea of the direction of the discussion and the details included in the book are eye-opening and exciting.

About two-thirds of our list is made by producers who are committed to making their wines in a radically clean, conscious, “organic” way…I’d love some day for it to be the whole list, and I think it can be.  Too many people are changing their ways, going back to traditional methods, and seeing fantastic results.  At a certain point, labels aren’t useful…we’ll let the wines speak for themselves.

Why not buy 1/2 a bottle of wine for 1/2 price?

I was reading in a food magazine recently about top sommeliers and one of them was talking about this idea, as a courtesy to others in the restaurant industry: why not let someone try a bottle that’s on the wine list, 1/2 a bottle for 1/2 price? It sounded like a great idea for me: less risk to the customer and the ability to conceivably try a couple of different wines with dinner. However, there is no way I could manage opening up the whole list this way: too much craziness and probably too much waste! So what we’ve been doing the last couple of weeks has been to offer a few of our wines this way, and we’ll keep changing/rotating them. We have beautiful, heavy-bottomed glass bottles to serve the wine in called “Pot Lyonnais” which are under a 1/2-litre (the wine rations for the silk workers of yore in Lyon).

People really seem to “get it” so far! I’m so pleased: we have so many little gems on our wine list, and this is a great way to discover them. If you want to, try a glass or a half-bottle; if you love it, buy another half (it’s the same price, anyway!) or try something else. We’re going to have a lot of fun with this in the summer. Next time you’re in the restaurant, be sure to check out our “Wine Discoveries” and let me know what you think!

Rhubarb Custard Pie…sigh…

I always say, and it really is true, that it’s impossible to pick my favorite recipe.  There are just too many good things in the world to make and we’re forever discovering new ones, which is the best part.  But I have to admit, Rhubarb Custard Pie is definitely deserving of a spot in my Top Ten.  I watched Pete cut the rhubarb for me the other day at Woven Roots Farm and my mouth just started watering then and there.  Probably my first taste memory is of jumping over a stone fence at the age of 3 1/2 with my big brother and his friends, and grabbing stalks of rhubarb out of the garden and eating them, raw, on the spot (until the farmer came and we scrambled away!)!  I loved it then and I love it now.  There’s one in the oven as I write, making the kitchen smell too good…if you see some rhubarb around, grab a bunch and try one!

Rhubarb Custard Pie

(from Bloodroot restaurant, see their website for their incomparable cookbooks)

Preheat oven to 400. Prepare a pie crust and line the bottom of one 9 in tart pan with a removable bottom (you can do this the day before and let the crust chill to lessen shrinkage). I like to par-bake this crust for about 8-10 minutes before filling, weighed down with some pie weights/beans/etc., but it’s not obligatory.

Slice 7 large stalks of rhubarb (3 cups) 1/4 – 1/2 inch thick. Set aside.

In a bowl, beat 4 eggs until foamy, then whisk in 1/4 c all-purpose flour, 1 1/3 c sugar, 1/4 t salt, 1 t vanilla, and beat thoroughly with a whisk.

Spread rhubarb into tart shell, top with custard, then I like to do as I was taught and top with a lattice crust: roll out more pie dough, cut into 3/4 in wide strips, lay over top of pie, then lay another layer on the diagonal over the first layer (makes a pretty effect without having to weave the lattice strips. Bake at 400 for first 10-15 minutes, then lower temp to 350 and bake until puffed and browned and set when jiggled (about 30 mins.)