Sustainable & Organic Viticulture Wine Dinner, Friday May 18 6:30

 

Why should we have a night highlighting “organic” wines?  In fact, grapes top the list of the most “sprayed” produce items, so seeking out wines by suppliers who have eliminated this practice,  whether they have the title “certified organic” or not, has been a priority of ours from the beginning.  And it’s not difficult to find great wines in this category, though sometimes you have to search a little to learn about the winemaker’s practices: most of the wines aren’t labeled organic.  It seems that a while back, “organic” wine got a reputation for being a synonym for “bad” wine!  It’s possible that with less dependence on added sulphites, some new-to-organic producers had a steep learning curve for managing the preservation of their wines.  But for the vast majority of winemakers, the change to sustainable & organic viticulture practices was just a question of going back to business as usual, moving away from the modern dependence on synthetic fertilizers and pesticides, to the way wines were made for generations.  Radical or not?  You’ll decide when you taste the delicious selection of wines we have paired for our evening of Organic Wines.  We’ve made an effort to keep the menu true to “terroir” as well, sourcing organic ingredients, the maximum of which are local, and all of which should add up to a fabulous night of great food and wine!**

 

“Chez Nous”

Sustainable & Organic Viticulture Wine Dinner

Friday, May 18, 2012, 6:30 pm

 

Welcome Aperitif: Warm Flan of Hudson Valley Foie Gras,

Walnuts & Sweet Potato

André et Mireille Tissot Crémant du Jura N/V (France)

To Begin,

Wild-Caught MA Citrus-Crusted Cod in a Coconut & Lemongrass Nage

Hofer Gruner Veltliner, 2011 (Austria)

Next,

Northeast Family Farms Grass-fed Beef Shortribs Provençal with Olives & Oven-Dried Tomatoes,  Berkshire Organics’ Spring Vegetable Ragout

Pares Balta Mas Petit 2009 (Spain)

After:

Vermont Creamery Crèmont Cheese with Truffle Honey & Equinox Arugula

Perrin et Fils Nature Cotes du Rhone 2010 (France)

And for Dessert:

Creamy Passionfruit Tart, St. Germain-Mint-Lime Sabayon, Organic Berries & Cassis Sauce

Supernatural Sauvignon Blanc 2009 (New Zealand)

 

Price per person: $60.00 excluding tax and gratuity

** Thanks to Berkshire Organics for the produce for tonight’s dinner & Nejaime’s Stockbridge for choosing tonight’s wines.  Please let us know if there are any dietary restrictions requiring adjustments to the menu.  All items subject to availability.

 

Gluten Free Recipes, a Work in Progress…

This past year, gluten free cooking has become our mantra, as more and more guests come into the restaurant who are gluten intolerant. Not satisfied with merely serving them gluten-free bread and discussing the limitations of our menu for them, we decided that it was time to really restructure our menu in a much smarter way with regards to this now epidemic problem.   Our friend and nutritionist, Elizabeth Dimeo, kindly joined our guests last Thursday for an informative and inspiring evening, discussing gluten-free diets and their benefits.  My personal favorite thing that she said was how she described a typical, diet-conscious, working American’s day: “You wake up in the morning, and eat your Special K, since everyone says it’s good diet food, with of course , skim milk.  By 10am you could eat a horse.  Light-headed and hungry, you get through the rest of the morning, and now: lunch!  A couple of slices of turkey between two slices of Pepperidge Farm skinny bread!  With a schmear of mayo and a Diet Coke! Great.  It’s 1 pm and have you had anything DELICIOUS or NUTRITIOUS yet to eat?  Not at all.  Now you get through the afternoon, by 4pm you’re ready for a nap.  Snack, let’s not mention it, cookies, crackers, and now dinner…PASTA!  with a glass of red wine.  Do you know the best thing about this meal?  The glass of wine!”

I have to admit, I don’t think she was exaggerating too badly here.  I know that gluten-ful foods have been the mainstay of my diet since I became a pastry chef.  But what Franck and I both have found since we’ve dramatically reduced our intake of these (much-beloved) foods, is that in fact when you take them out, not only do you get the benefit of a more varied and healthy diet, more satisfied and less tired, but also you end up replacing them with extra portions of more nutrient-rich foods: veggies, beans, etc.  It’s just inevitable.

One of the reasons that we love Elizabeth so much is that she’s a foodie; she’s not advocatinga strict menu of bland, boring healthy foods.  Our menu for Thursday night’s event was our attempt to get the guests excited about how delicious gluten-free recipes can be.  So, since many folks who might be interested in some of our new developments for our own cooking weren’t able to attend last week’s dinner, I thought I’d post the recipes that we’ve shared with our “Manger! Boire! Eat! Drink!” people here:

 

Cauliflower “Couscous”

1 head cauliflower, shave with a sharp knife.  Pulse in a food processor to the texture of couscous.  Saute ¼ onion in olive oil and add ½ t curry powder, ½ t harissa, 2 T white wine, splash water, 2 T butter, and cook lightly.

Sprouting Lentils

Soak lentils one hour in a large jar.  Drain and cover with Cheesecloth.  Allow to sit in a cool, dry place for 2-3 days, rinsing with cold water 2 times/day, draining well each time.  After 2-3 days you will see the root sprouting out of the lentils.  Keep in the refrigerator until ready to use. Dress these lentils with vinaigrette to push up the protein and nutrient value of your salads considerably.  We served them warm with the Cauliflower “Couscous.”

Chickpea Panisse

2 c stock

1 ¼ c chickpea flour

3 T olive oil

Salt, pepper

¼ c minced onion

1 t smoked paprika

1 T oregano

1 t espelette pepper

-Saute onion and spices in small sauté pan until tender

-whisk in flour, stock. Olive oil, cold

-heat up slowly while whisking.

-when thick like roux, and pulling away from the pan, remove from heat.

-fold in onion mixture, season.

-cool spread flat on mini sheet pan, cover with plastic, chill to cut into desired shapes and then pan- or deep- fry.

 

Grilled Chicken Marinade

5 lemons juiced and zested

6 garlic cloves, minced

½ bunch basil or cilantro, chopped

2 c honey

Salt and pepper

 

Gluten-free Blondies

1 x 7X11 sheet pan, greased and floured.  Oven 350F

230 g gluten free flour**

½ t salt

1 ½ t  baking powder

2 sticks melted butter

1 ¼ c  brown sugar

½ c sugar

2 yolk

2 egg

1 ½ t vanilla

Chocolate chunks to cover

** gluten free flour mix:

2 c brown rice flour

1 c sweet sorghum flour

1 c coconut flour

-Melt butter and mix with sugars, add eggs, yolks and vanilla.  Stir in dry ingredients, pour into pan and top with chocolate chunks.  Bake until tester just comes out clean, about 25 minutes.

 

Watercress & Cauliflower Soup

1 head cauliflower, chopped

4 bunches watercress, washed

1 onion, diced

1 celery stick, diced

1 leek, sliced

1 c white wine

Salt, pepper, nutmeg

Vegetable stock or water

-sweat the onion, leek, and celery, add white wine, stock & cauliflower.  When cauliflower is tender, season soup and add the watercress.  Bring to boil, then turn off heat and puree.

 

Socca – Chickpea Crêpe

1 ¾ c chickpea flour

2 c water

1.5 T extra virgin olive oil

¾ t salt

Pepper

 

2 egg whites – whip to soft peak and fold into above

Can finish batter with fresh herbs, if desired.  Pour into heated, oiled crepe pan.  We served these with ratatouille and braised Swiss chard.

 

Quinoa Jumbalaya

4 servings

 

12 shrimp

20 bay scallops

2 T olive oil

1 medium onion, chopped

1 green pepper chopped

2 stalks celery, chopped

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 large tomato, diced

2-3 T tomato paste

¾ c quinoa, rinsed

1 c white wine

1 c vegetable stock or water

1 t paprika

¼ t cayenne

1 t dried oregano

1 t dried thyme

3 bay leaves

Salt, pepper

Sweat onion, pepper, celery & garlic until translucent.  Add seasonings and tomato paste.  Add tomatoes, salt, pepper and quinoa, stock & wine.  Bring to boil & cover 15 mins.  over low heat.  Stir occasionally and check if quinoa is fully cooked.  Add shellfish at the end and check seasoning.

 

Thursday, May 24, 6:30pm, “Manger! Boire! Eat! Drink!” Bar-b-que Night

This week, Thursday, May 24 at 6:30, “Manger! Boire! Eat! Drink!” will step into summer for our final event before the season gets going.  We’ll break out the smoker, and do some Bar-b-que from both sides of the Atlantic, along with some summer red wines for your tasting pleasure!  We’ll hope to see you there, $30 for food, wine, recipes, cooking demo and fun foodie conversation…

What is Petit Epeautre/Einkorn Grain?? Why Should We Eat It?

The event that I attended in Boston yesterday at the Chef’s Collaborative was called “It All Comes Down to Grain.”  I’ve been thinking about grains so much lately, and trying to bake with Petit Epeautre/Einkorn grain, to make healthier, but equally delicious, pastries.  The challenges, the goals, the context — all have been fluttering around and I needed to verbalize this for the chefs and farmers at the event in just a few minutes.  Ugh!

The first part of the event was a presentation by Eli Rogosa, the woman whom we met in March, an anthropologist working on saving heritage grains from extinction.  One of her favorites, of the many seeds she has tested aquired from gene banks around the world, is Einkorn or Petit Epeautre in French.  Her original grain was collected in Europe, and multiple field trials sponsored by the USDA at UMass resulted in great production from the Einkorn plants in the Berkshire climate.  It has twice the protein and minerals as modern commercial wheat, and is considered “gluten safe” for many people who have been dealing with wheat and gluten sensitivities brought on largely by the hybridization and manipulation of modern mono-crop wheats.  Today’s blended “all-purpose” wheats have been bread to grow very low to the ground, in order to be less fragile, have a very short root system, and are grown as mono-crops, making them highly dependent on synthetic fertilizers to help them grow.  They have been bred for high gluten content, to make the lighter, puffier loaves of bread that we’ve all grown accustomed to.  In fact, it seems that they’ve been so manipulated that they are much less digestible and have been making more and more people sick!  The ancient wheats and grains have the advantage of a very deep root system, making them much more hardy, though they grow very tall (as we all imagine wheat does and should, but it doesn’t anymore!).  As Eli points out, in a  capricious climate change environment such as we are now living in, better to depend on grains that have survived 1000′s of years and have the ability to survive without synthetic fertilizers or possibly with very little water! Nevermind that they are easily digestible and organically grown.

But do these grains taste delicious?  Are they easy to work with?  As I said to the guests at yesterdays event, “Yes, you can make French pastries with ancient grains!”  Who knew?  It’s very satisfying to work with this beautiful flour:  It has a delicacy of flavor and a silkiness to it which is very appealing, and butter just seems to bring out these qualities even more.  I’m learning to bake all over again, and it was a great experience to attend the event in Boston yesterday, meet some like-minded chefs, and get to validate and contextualize a bit more our decision to limit our working with commercial wheat and maximize our use of the ancient grain Petit Epeautre!  It’s not “all-purpose” but why should it be?  It’s very liberating to be able to think and act holistically about what we’re doing as chefs.  It feels like a missing link has been supplied in our sourcing of healthier, pesticide-free, not genetically modified REAL FOOD to serve at our restaurant.  We have no interest in working with a product which is largely indigestible.  And when you can have excellent results, there’s really no question.  As Eli says “Eat it to Save it.”  We cannot lose these ancient grains!

June 15, Rose Wine Dinner: Let’s Toast to the Summer!

More information will be coming up soon about our last wine dinner before the season; June 15th the night will be devoted to our favorite summer wine, Rosé, and we’re going to explore just how versatile this wine can be.  We hope you can join us for one of this special nights; price will be $60 per person excluding tax and gratuity.

Speculoos Fruit Crumble

Crumble…gotta have it…it’s just one of those things!  People love crumble so much, if it’s not on the menu, that’s it, they’re not getting any dessert.  I have to say,  I love it too.  It’s not the most original dessert out there, but when it’s well done (fruit’s not too sweetened, crumble is cooked through — not raw! –) it really always satisfies.  I’m convinced that people order it in restaurants because somewhere they feel that it’s healthy, but I’ve had guests assure me that no, they just love it!  And it’s the perfect seasonal dessert, too, of course. Whatever fruit looks good, just top it and bake!

So how to make myself more engaged by baking crumble after crumble?  I’ve must have literally made thousands of them.  Dorie Greenspan, one of my strongest muses, provided an excellent option this past fall:  add crushed Speculoos!

What are Speculoos, you ask, and why would I want them in my already-divine crumble? Speculoos are a kind of European ginger snap, my friends, and they are as addictive as any cookie you could want to eat.  Crumbled up, mixed with soft butter, and then mixed into your crumble topping, they take the dessert to a whole new level:  spicy, warm, yummy with winter fruits like apples and cranberries.

Crumbling stuff up into your crumble … why didn’t I think of this before???

Apple-Cranberry-Speculoos Crumble

 

Apple-Cranberry Speculoos Crumble

8 Granny Smith apples, peeled and chopped into 1/2 inch pieces

1/2 c fresh cranberries

1/2 c sugar

1 T cornstarch

pinch salt

1 t cinnamon

pinch freshly grated nutmeg

1 T lemon juice

-Toss all of the fruit together in a large bowl and set aside for the juices to release while you make the topping.

Topping:

1/2 lb butter, melted and cooled

3 1/2 c all-purpose flour

1 c oats

1 c sugar

1/2 c dark brown sugar

1 t cinnamon

1 t mixed spice for baking

pinch salt

-Toss all ingredients quickly together in a large bowl so that the butter is evenly distributed and mixture looks dry, not in big clumps:

If you don’t want to use the Speculoos, you can stop at this point, put the fruit in the baking dish and top with the crumble.  Bake at 375F until well-browned and bubbling (don’t take it out until you’ve got bubbles coming from the middle of the crumble, not just the edges; underbaked crumbles are one of my nemesis!) This is a delicious crumb topping, and by far the best recipe of all that I have tried over the years.
But, if you’d like to take things up a notch, by all means, let’s get the Speculoos in there!

You can buy Biscoff cookies, or these Trader Joe's look-alikes, or just use a nice gingersnap that you make or buy in the supermarket

For this quantity of crumb topping, use one package of cookies and one stick of soft butter.

Any heavy kitchen tool will crush these up efficiently. I like to keep a few large chunks so no one forgets that this is a Speculoos Crumble!

Use any heavy implement that you have to hand, a rolling pin, a hammer, express yourself… and crush the cookies in a large metal or wooden bowl with authority until they are crumbs with some nice chunks remaining.   Now you have to thoroughly smush the butter into the cookie crumbs, making sure that you evenly distribute the butter. Dorie Greenspan actually just put this topping onto the crumble and baked it. I tried this originally and it is really good and different, a nice change from the crumble doldrums. But it’s a bit sweet (even for me!) with all of those cookies, so I thought it might be nice to mix it into the topping and cut the sweetness a bit. Voila! The Ultimate Crumble…Soft butter mixes into the cookie crumbs with a lot of messy, sticky hand action!  Mix these into your other crumbs and load on top of the fruit in the baking pan Combine the two toppings and then sprinkle generously on top of the prepared fruit and bake. Any extra crumb topping can be frozen for the next time you are in the mood to bake dessert. They also make a nice topping for pumpkin muffins, if you’d like to try something different, but I guess that’s another story…

What do we know about Korean food??

We’re aware that this is a French restaurant!!  But we actually love to cook everything, and “Manger! Boire!” night is such a great way for us to share the other things that we know, besides French cuisine and pastry!

Living in London and studying pastry at Le Cordon Bleu in the mid 90′s, I somehow got mixed up with a band of Korean boarders living with a Korean family… long story…but what an amazing discovery for me: Korean food!  I happily devoured fabulous meals at their communal table, coming early and staying late to cook, cook, cook with the lady of the house.  Her English was sparse, but we smiled at each other, cooked, and smiled some more.  I took copious notes and ended up thanking them when it was time to go with a lasagna dinner (their requested dish:  never saw a group of people get so excited about lasagna and garlic bread…I was surprised until I realized that it was probably the amount of GARLIC in everything that they were loving!  garlic being an integral ingredient in Korean food).  We made breakfast, lunch and dinner together and I have to say, I never felt so healthy and energetic as during this time when I ate mostly Korean food!  Very light, savory, full of garlic, ginger, chilies and fermented pickles, this cuisine is definitely among our favorites.  It’s a huge cuisine with a vast history, and so different from other Asian cuisines.  We’re looking forward to showing what we know about Korean food to our guests this Thursday night!

 

Beet “Tartare”

It may sound like we’re saying Beef, but it’s actually vegetarian Beet “Tartare,” a delicious salad or spread — fresh beets that have been cooked & then seasoned like a traditional “Steak Tartare” — that we’ve been getting lots of recipe requests for.  The idea for the dish comes from one of our most reliable recipe-providers, Patricia Wells.  We’ve made it with local Heirloom beets of all colors, or just with regular red beets, and it’s always just wonderful. As part of our “Autumn Trio” with Mushroom-Walnut Pate & Home-made Fromage Blanc, it’s a pure winner!

1 lb beets, roasted or boiled until cooked through, then cooled and grated or shredded

2 shallots, chopped

½ c chopped parsley

2 T Dijon mustard

½ clove minced garlic

1 T chopped capers

Dash Tabasco

Dash Worcestershire

-Mix all together and taste for seasoning.  Use mayonnaise to taste, if desired, to bring together and give a little creaminess.  Let rest at least 1 hr before serving.

 

What’s a Posset?

Lemon-Lavender Posset

It has become a summer tradition here to serve this simple and refreshing dessert. I have so many requests for the recipe, I’ve decided to post it so that you can astonish your guests this summer with something that is so easy and delicious! It’s an old-fashioned, creamy English dessert made without any eggs or gelatin, which can be infused with any herb or citrus. Try using fresh thyme or rosemary instead of lavender and let me know how it comes out.

Lemon Lavender Posset
makes about 6, depending on your ramekins

2 1/4 c Heavy Cream
3/4 c sugar
1 T Lavender Flowers
-Bring to boil and let simmer for 2-3 minutes to slightly thicken the cream

1/2 c Lemon Juice
1 T lemon Zest
1/2 t vanilla extract
pinch salt
-Add the rest of the ingredients off of the heat, stir well, strain and pour into jars/ramekins. Let set in fridge at least 4 hours or overnight.

Escolar, What’s the Story?

If you want to know more about this delicious fish, that you really shouldn’t eat, you can read it at this link: Escolar – Wikipedia

We’ve carried this fish occasionally, and eaten it ourselves here and as “White Tuna” at other restaurants, and it’s so delicious and popular, you’d never imagine that it could make you sick, but it can.  Not lethally, and not everybody, but you can be uncomfortable for a period of time for sure.

It’s getting harder and harder to find fish that you can feel good about serving.  We stopped carrying shrimp a long time ago; now we get it only when it’s from a sustainable, good practice, American farm.  That’s it.  No Thai shrimp, no trawled shrimp, no way.  Mercury is a big issue, overfishing is a big issue, unhealthy fish farming practices is a big issue.  Oil spills?  other environmental degradation?  You really have to think before you buy.  We are able to get sustainably farmed salmon, but even that is shifting now and we’ve had to change companies because we lost trust in our former “Organic and Sustainable” fish company.  Line-caught Massachusetts Cod has been very good and reliable, as has Mediterranean Bronzini.

High-end restaurants like our favorite, Le Bernardin, charge a tremendous amount of money and serve fantastic fish, but that’s what you have to do these days more and more.  With all of the problems out there in the sea, it’s not obvious for people who can’t afford to spend that kind of money every time that they want to eat fish.  And it’s a shame when a fish that is so consistently fresh and delicious as escolar turns out to be, quite apart from all of these external factors, not, in fact, a good eating fish after all.  We really wanted everyone to know about the situation.